40 Love by Jean Desprez c1947

In 1947, Jean Desprez introduced his only unisex fragrance, 40 Amour, a name that cleverly encapsulates the essence of tennis and its unique scoring system. The phrase “40 Amour” translates to "40 Love," where "love" signifies a score of zero in tennis, while “40” indicates the point just before winning a game. Pronounced "quarante amour," this term evokes images of spirited matches, the thrill of competition, and the elegance of the sport. The name itself conjures emotions of vitality, energy, and romance, perfectly aligning with the brisk and refreshing character of the fragrance.

40 Amour is classified as a fougere fragrance, often associated with natural, green, and aromatic notes. This crisp, sporty scent is designed to embody the spirit of tennis with its invigorating blend of ingredients, including pine oil, tarragon, oakmoss, and sun-ripened hay. One of the standout notes is a secret extract that imparts "the frail insistent smell of pure linen drying on a lawn," evoking images of warm summer days spent outdoors, basking in the sun, and engaging in leisurely activities. This olfactory representation of freshness and cleanliness resonates with both men and women, making it a fitting choice for a unisex fragrance during an era that celebrated athleticism and the outdoor lifestyle.

The late 1940s was a transformative time for tennis as a sport, with increasing popularity among both men and women. Events like the Wimbledon Championships and the U.S. Open were drawing larger audiences, showcasing the athletic prowess and grace of players like Louise Brough and Pancho Gonzales. The inclusive nature of tennis made it an ideal backdrop for a fragrance that sought to appeal to a diverse audience. During the launch party of 40 Amour, Spanish sculptor Juan Palas designed special trophies for the tennis and golf tournaments, further emphasizing the fragrance's connection to the sporting world.

Despite its initial unisex appeal, 40 Amour was discontinued but later reintroduced in 1975 specifically as a men's fragrance. This decision likely stemmed from evolving market trends and a growing emphasis on gender-specific scents. By the mid-1970s, the fragrance industry began to categorize scents more strictly along gender lines, with consumers increasingly gravitating toward distinct profiles. Rebranding 40 Amour for men allowed Parfums Jean Desprez to tap into the nostalgic charm of the original while aligning it with contemporary expectations, thus breathing new life into a classic that had once captured the spirit of a vibrant era in both sport and fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fougere fragrance for men. 40 Love contained pine oil, tarragon, oakmoss and sun ripened hay, plus a secret extract said to give off "the frail insistent smell of pure linen drying on a lawn."

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, tarragon, geranium, lemon, lavender, marjoram
• Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, rose, dried fruits, hay, pine oil, orris, galbanum, opoponax
• Base notes: styrax, castoreum, labdanum, amber, oakmoss, Tonkin musk, leather, sandalwood, civet, vetiver

La Coiffure de Paris, 1951:

"40 Love - Good-smelling water for sports. Use like eau de cologne or eau de toilette. Practical and durable, perfectly airtight bottle in the shape of a cognac 'flask'. Capacity: 9cl 5 - 18cl. - Jean Desprez."

Scent Profile:

40 Amour, the crisp fougere fragrance by Jean Desprez, unfolds like a sunlit morning on the tennis court, inviting you to experience its intricate layers through a series of delightful notes. As you take your first breath, the top notes greet you with a vibrant explosion of aldehydes, whose effervescent, soapy quality adds a sparkling freshness to the air. This lively opening is complemented by the bright zest of bergamot, which dances with its citrusy charm, evoking images of sun-kissed lemon groves. 

The herbal whispers of tarragon emerge next, offering a subtle green spiciness that invites curiosity, while the light floral hints of geranium and the uplifting brightness of lemon add depth. Together, these elements create an invigorating first impression, reminiscent of a leisurely stroll in a blooming garden.

As the initial brightness begins to soften, the fragrance transitions into its heart, where gardenia and jasmine intertwine in a soft, intoxicating embrace. The creamy richness of gardenia envelops you like a warm hug, its sweet, buttery petals exuding elegance and femininity. In contrast, the jasmine adds a seductive floral note, its heady aroma inviting you to linger a little longer. 

A hint of rose introduces a touch of romance, while the intriguing presence of dried fruits brings a natural sweetness that balances the floral heart. The airy essence of hay recalls sun-drenched fields, grounding the scent in the natural world. Meanwhile, the distinctive pine oil whispers of fresh woodland walks, its resinous quality evoking the crispness of evergreen trees. This delightful mix is further enhanced by the delicate earthiness of orris and the warm, balsamic notes of galbanum and opoponax, creating a beautifully complex tapestry of aromas.

As the fragrance settles, it reveals its base, which is rich and multifaceted. The deep, resinous warmth of styrax and labdanum wraps around you, their sweet, balsamic notes evoking the scent of ancient woods and sun-warmed earth. The animalic essence of castoreum introduces a sensual depth, enhancing the fragrance's warmth and adding a touch of intrigue. This is beautifully complemented by the rich amber, which contributes a golden glow and a sense of richness. 

The earthy aroma of oakmoss brings a touch of nature's raw beauty, its mossy, forest scent grounding the fragrance and connecting it to the earth. Meanwhile, the luxurious Tonkin musk and leather notes offer a suave sophistication, reminiscent of finely crafted goods, while the smoky, aromatic qualities of sandalwood and civet create a warm, creamy finish. Finally, vetiver adds an earthy, woody undertone, balancing the fragrance with its green freshness.

In essence, 40 Amour is a fragrant homage to the vitality of life and the spirit of sport, capturing a moment of joy, freshness, and the camaraderie of tennis. Each note contributes to a vivid sensory experience, inviting you to savor the journey from the bright, cheerful opening to the warm, elegant embrace of its base. This fragrance is not just a scent; it is an evocative reminder of sunny days and lively matches, perfectly encapsulating the energy and romance of its namesake.

Bottle:

Available in the following:

• 4 oz Eau de Cologne Splash Pour Les Messieurs (Special for Men) 
• 8 oz Eau de Cologne Splash Pour Les Messieurs (Special for Men)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1947, 40 Amour still captured the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in the vibrant 1960s, a decade marked by a sense of exploration and innovation. This unisex scent encapsulated the era’s spirit, reflecting the rising popularity of outdoor sports, particularly tennis, and the cultural shift towards more casual and playful expressions of identity. However, as fashion and fragrance trends evolved, 40 Amour was ultimately discontinued, its presence fading from the market as the 1970s approached.

In a surprising revival, 40 Amour was reintroduced in 1975, this time marketed specifically as a men’s fragrance. The relaunch included various formats, offering the scent as Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, and Aftershave. This strategic move reflected a growing interest in masculine fragrances that embodied freshness and vitality, aligning with the burgeoning men's grooming market. The rebranding breathed new life into the fragrance, attracting a new generation of consumers eager to embrace the sporty, crisp notes that 40 Amour was known for.

During this period, Alfin served as the exclusive importer and distributor for several notable scents from Parfums Jean Desprez, including Bal à Versailles, Jardanel, and the revitalized 40 Amour. Alfin played a crucial role in ensuring that these perfumes reached a broader audience, effectively establishing them in the competitive fragrance market of the time. Their expertise in distribution allowed Jean Desprez’s creations to thrive, as they capitalized on the growing trend for unique and sophisticated scents.

Despite its initial discontinuation, 40 Amour managed to maintain a certain allure, remaining available in the market as late as 1984. This longevity speaks to the fragrance's enduring charm and the nostalgic affection held by fans, both old and new. While trends continued to shift, the essence of 40 Amour lingered, a testament to its distinctive character and the memories it evoked for those who experienced it. Through its journey, 40 Amour not only mirrored the changing landscape of fragrance but also left a lasting impression on the world of perfumery, proving that some scents can transcend time and trends.