In 1947, Jean Desprez introduced his only unisex fragrance, 40 Amour, a name that cleverly encapsulates the essence of tennis and its unique scoring system. The phrase “40 Amour” translates to "40 Love," where "love" signifies a score of zero in tennis, while “40” indicates the point just before winning a game. Pronounced "quarante amour," this term evokes images of spirited matches, the thrill of competition, and the elegance of the sport. The name itself conjures emotions of vitality, energy, and romance, perfectly aligning with the brisk and refreshing character of the fragrance.
40 Amour is classified as a fougere fragrance, often associated with natural, green, and aromatic notes. This crisp, sporty scent is designed to embody the spirit of tennis with its invigorating blend of ingredients, including pine oil, tarragon, oakmoss, and sun-ripened hay. One of the standout notes is a secret extract that imparts "the frail insistent smell of pure linen drying on a lawn," evoking images of warm summer days spent outdoors, basking in the sun, and engaging in leisurely activities. This olfactory representation of freshness and cleanliness resonates with both men and women, making it a fitting choice for a unisex fragrance during an era that celebrated athleticism and the outdoor lifestyle.
The late 1940s was a transformative time for tennis as a sport, with increasing popularity among both men and women. Events like the Wimbledon Championships and the U.S. Open were drawing larger audiences, showcasing the athletic prowess and grace of players like Louise Brough and Pancho Gonzales. The inclusive nature of tennis made it an ideal backdrop for a fragrance that sought to appeal to a diverse audience. During the launch party of 40 Amour, Spanish sculptor Juan Palas designed special trophies for the tennis and golf tournaments, further emphasizing the fragrance's connection to the sporting world.
Despite its initial unisex appeal, 40 Amour was discontinued but later reintroduced in 1975 specifically as a men's fragrance. This decision likely stemmed from evolving market trends and a growing emphasis on gender-specific scents. By the mid-1970s, the fragrance industry began to categorize scents more strictly along gender lines, with consumers increasingly gravitating toward distinct profiles. Rebranding 40 Amour for men allowed Parfums Jean Desprez to tap into the nostalgic charm of the original while aligning it with contemporary expectations, thus breathing new life into a classic that had once captured the spirit of a vibrant era in both sport and fragrance.